The ‘Central’ department store contains five floors of stationary, artist materials, pens and paper, calligraphy equipment, a printing shop and cafe. I spent ages just looking at the Japanese water colours – Gansai Tambi – before making a selection. They are renowned for stunning colour pigmentation and for being long lasting. The new watercolour papers are 70% bamboo and at a size closer to A4 rather than the A6 and A5 I’ve been confined to.